March 30. Today we are going on a tour of the 1200
acre Estero Tamarindo by boat. Estuaries are a unique ecosystem
where salt water and fresh water are mixed by the tides. Many
species of birds, wildlife and plant life depend on these areas. The
mangroves growing along the estuary are especially significant environmentally,
since they serve as filters for polluted water flowing from the rivers
out into the ocean. Estuaries are so vital an ecosystem which are
unfortunately sometimes surrounded by controversy between ecologists
and developers. Such a battle rages in this area and nearby Tamarindo.
Hopefully, those who work tirelessly to educate will continue to have
an influence in preserving this wonderful place.
I discover too late that
my camera uses AAA not AA batteries and none such exist here. One of the better trips of
Jonathan's young life and I don't have a camera to record it! The Estuary
guide was to pick us up at 6:30 am and there is no time nor place to look for
batteries. We arrive at the designated pickup spot outside Las Tortugas to find only
one other couple waiting. Dean asks the guide (I am sorry I don't recall
his name) if there is any place he knows for purchasing batteries. He said
that someone just opened a new 'soda' not far from the boat
launch and thinks they open at 7 so we stop by and wait a few minutes for the
proprietor.
While we are waiting, a
local man driving by stops to show us 'tourists' a tiny baby
Leatherback turtle he
picked up somewhere. He thought it was 'cool' and put it down on the
roadway for us to watch. I was really concerned
that he would get it back to the water. Later I wondered if
he was going to put it back
in the water.
The other couple from the hotel has a
very serious, computerized camera and the lady takes a few shots of the baby turtle. We find out that she is
Jessie Cohen, the official photographer for the National Zoo in Washington DC. She and her husband are
avid 'birders' and this is their 3rd trip
to Costa Rica mainly to observe and photograph birds.
The 'boat' is a pontoon-type flatbed with a fumy and noisy motor. It probably has scared away most of the
wildlife. We do see
some birds and Jessie knows all the names. The boatman is good about killing the motor and drifting in so she can take
some good shots. This is a mangrove area that snakes around behind Playa Grande and empties into the
ocean near Tamarindo. It is beautiful and peaceful even with the noise of the
boat motor. At one point the guide stops and maneuvers in under a large
tree. We aren't sure why, but soon see a small crocodile about 3 or 4 feet
long on a log. It doesn't stay around when we approach, but it is great to
see close up as he splashes into the water. Around a few more bends in the
estuary, the guide stops the boat and ties up to a small dock and motions us
out.
We take a short hike and he cups his hands
around his mouth and starts making a strange sound. We hear the same sound echoed back
to us from further inland and continue walking that way. Then the trees above us
come alive with this unforgettable sound. We finally see the source--a
family of howler monkeys. Each time he makes their 'howling' sound, they answer. Of course Jonathan picked up on that really
quick. Click here to listen and here.
This next one was recorded and is copyrighted by Doug Von Gausig and is
used with his permission here.
Back on the water
we drift around a few more bends and Jessie spots a Tiger Heron along the shore.
She says it is the first one
they have ever seen in the wild. She shot a lot of rolls of film while we were
there and we ask if she
might make a few extra copies to send to Jonathan for a school report since our camera wasn't working. The trip was about 2 hours
long and well worth it. The cost was $25 each, $10 for Jonathan including
hotel pickup.
We planned to go into Tamarindo again to have lunch before checking out of
Las Tortugas and offered
Jessie & her husband a ride. We all had coffee at the Blue Maxx. They were going to look around
town and would take a water taxi back so we exchanged email addresses and said
farewell. We had a very tasty grilled chicken sandwich from a place right beside the coffee shop.
Several geckos were sunning on the fence and trees around the eatery. They are a
little startling when you aren't expecting them or use to seeing them. They were about
15-24"
long and run around like squirrels only much more slowly.
As we headed back to Las Tortugas to pack up our belongings and I wanted to take Jonathan to the
Children's Turtle museum just a
city-block down the road. Unfortunately I hadn't checked the schedule close enough and
discover they don't open till 4. Also, there is a road that goes north behind the hotel and I'd like
to see where it goes, but there
just doesn't seem to be enough daylight and being sick for the better part of a day
didn’t help. Our original plans were to head down the peninsula toward the
Montezuma area and stay at the Finca Los Caballos near Cobano, run by Canadian
Barbara MacGregor. But we decide
we've all had enough of the heat and beach and change our plans instead to make our way inland toward the mountains. We called
ahead to Chalet Nicholas,
a B&B in Nuevo Arenal on the north side of
Lake Arenal. We had an article from the Tico Times and it sounded like a
good place to stay.