Oxcart

We landed at San Jose International Airport around 8:30 AM and though we were weary, we were excited.  Because of what we had read about airport thievery and quick snatch artists, we were on guard.  However, there didn't appear to be loiterers or suspicious characters lurking that we could recognize. Our passports were checked and we moved quickly through customs.  We exchanged some money while at the airport.  This turned out to be one of best rates we got anywhere (218 Colones to $1 US). 

A note about what to expect of the weather:  Costa Rica has two seasons - a dry season (called the 'High season', probably referring to prices) that starts around the end of November and ends around the end of March and the 'Green Season' (also known as a rainy season) that covers the other 8 months. The driest months within the rainy season are July and August, and the rainiest are September and October. During the  dry season it is usually sunny all day long (5:45 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.) and during the rainy season it is usually sunny until noon, then it rains for a few hours and clears up. Generally!

We could feel the humidity change, but it was pleasantly warm, somewhere in the low 80’s. I had on a long-sleeved Eddie Bauer T-shirt and jeans so was a little overdressed for this region.  San Jose is on the Meseta Central or Central Plateau that is surrounded by mountains, and at an elevation of 3773 feet above sea level is known for it's 'eternal spring' weather, with an average temperature of 20º Celsius throughout the year.

I noticed my husband tipping a man who helped with suitcases and instantly several more scrambled over “to help”. I think he tipped 4 others before we got out of the terminal. "More rich North Americans" they were no doubt thinking. Our taxi driver, who speaks English, was waiting for us.  Most B&Bs or hotels will arrange airport pickup for you which makes getting where you are going a lot simpler.  He kept the taxi windows down and the air smelled of exhaust fumes, the kind of smell when engines aren't tuned properly. Jonathan sat in front seat and he taught him a few things to say in Spanish while we drove the 20 minutes to Escazu.

When he heard we were going to the coast for four days, he offered to drive us there and take us around, then drive us back. I think he wanted $60 a day. Dean was thinking that might be better than renting a car and driving ourselves. Car rental can end up costly here as there is a mandatory $750 deductible.  The man was nice enough and it was good to hear him teaching Jonathan some conversational Spanish, but  I don't think I want to share our vacation with him. I am tired, stressed and sleep-deprived, and not feeling too friendly at the moment.  But this is one of the very pleasant aspects of Costa Rica -- the friendliness and helpfulness of the Ticos.  Generally, they will go out of their way to offer their help.   Most of us just aren't used to asking.

Driving through Escazu initiated some mild culture shock. I was told that the U.S. Ambassador's residence is here as well as some others.  It is only minutes from the airport and about 15 minutes from downtown San Jose. This area is full of luxury estates, old colonial buildings, a diverse assortment of restaurants and small hotels and B&Bs.  Escazu is said to be 'in the country', but that must have been years ago.  The taxi man drove us by a compound where he said the United States Embassy workers live. It was surrounded by concrete block or cement walls as (it seems) is any substantial house and the yards/grounds are not visible from  the street.  Other houses are right up to the street with iron gates surrounding the front. I wonder if burglary makes this all so necessary or if it's just the ‘style’.  He also drove us over a narrow bridge said to be haunted, over which some locals refuse to travel.

We arrived at Casa Maria B&B in Escazu about 9:30 in the morning and it was not what we had expected.   Had we not had reservations and paid in advance, we would have gone elsewhere. This was supposed to be in the 'countryside' but actually is very much 'in town'.  We live in the country and are not accustomed to close quarters.  There wasn't any 'country' to be seen though I think if we continued up the steep hill a little further we might get into some less densely populated area.  The houses along the street are close to the road and each other.  But it actually turned out to be situated on about an acre of land, all 'fenced' in with concrete walls.  I think they were in the process of adding some gardens which would nicely soften the first impression and greatly add to the ambiance. The owner also had a young son, and this was a good, safe place for them to play.  He and Jonathan had a great time until Paco got the flu.

Paco Our room looked out over the pool and patio. The floors and ceiling were a beautiful dark hardwood.  We of course weren't acclimated yet and looked for the a/c (spoiled North Americans that we are). There is none.  We were told that in this area it is not common as the temperatures don't fluctuate very much (just 10 or 12 degrees each day from low to high).  Escazu is situated up the southern slope from the Meseta Central and to the west of  San Jose so the climate really is spring-like.  It was comfortable with our windows open. People were right outside our windows on the terrace just finishing up breakfast and conversations.  Now my days and nights are mixed up and I was wondering why they were sitting around talking when I was ready for sleep. 

Jonathan was anxious to go swimming and since Dean had a few more hours of sleep than me he went in with him and (bless his heart) let me try to nap. Casa Maria Though breakfast was over, the kind lady cook fixed breakfast for them and later for me (around noon). We were really hungry as we hadn't eaten since the midnight dinner on the plane. There was no close place to eat except here. Dean wasn't ready to go walking 'downtown' because he was sure we'd be mugged. I went in the pool with Jonathan a little in afternoon.  The water was surprisingly chilly, not warm and tropical-like. Though dinner is not usually served here, John, a U.S. expatriate, planned to cook an evening meal for any that wanted.

It seems strange that it gets dark here around 6:30 in the evenings.  Because of the proximity to the equator, this part of the world has only about 12-13 hours of daylight year round.  This needs to be considered when making plans as sleeping in gets you a very short day for any activities.

DeanDinner was cooked and served on the terrace.  Just us, two ladies who seem as if they have been visiting for awhile, and two young North American guys.  I could have learned so much from them and their travels, but was still tired and not very social. One of the young fellows was taking a year after college graduation to live and travel mostly in Costa Rica--it sounds like he has been all over as well as to Nicaragua and Panama.  We did learn from them that if you get into a taxi and are told that la maria (the meter) is broken, get out and find another taxi.  They are required by law to use the meter, but some try to find a way to overcharge you.  There are also lots of 'pirate', unlicensed taxis, but they all drive red vehicles. John said he learned to cook by hanging around the chefs in New Orleans. He fixed thin pork chops with a crunchy coating, fried and a nice rice dish.  Jonathan tried the meal but didn't eat much except the rice.  

It is starting to be a little relaxing and it was a strange thought that we were actually sitting in Central America.  From the terrace there is a small break in the surroundings that provides a bit of a view across the valley of San Jose to the mountains to the north. Lawrence, the owner says there is a volcano across there - Poas - and makes a strange comment about how he hates it. I didn’t ask why. I can see lots of lights and wonder what’s over there and if I'll get to find out.

We went exploring around the grounds after dinner and discovered that the owner's older son has a 'soda' out by the street. He fixes roasted chicken and hamburgers. So Jonathan got some chicken to fill him up. We shared some of it and made friends with a stray cat.  It’s Friday night and people are strolling up and down the street with lots of little kids.  They don't seem fearful about being mugged but Dean still is cautious since we aren't familiar with the area. 

The young fellows decided to watch JAWS after dinner on the communal TV.  There is no TV in the rooms, and nothing to do after dinner -- no computer, no Internet, and it's so early. It's difficult to change gears so suddenly, going from high activity to none.  I missed a great opportunity to socialize with the other guests and learn what they have discovered. I’m still stressed.  I start questioning the plans we made especially since we are going to be staying here for 5 days and start looking through the guide book we brought. I want this trip to be really good as it's a first time for our family being out of the country. I remind myself that this is ONLY THE FIRST DAY HERE.  I know I will be better after I get some sleep.

Dean called some people who live in San Jose with whom we became acquainted through our pastor friend, to see if it would be convenient for us to visit on Saturday and to let Jonathan visit with their son. We said we would take a cab but Orietta insisted that she would pick us up.  We had to have the owner give her directions.  I'm amazed that anyone can find their way around town with the lack of street signs.

Jonathan and a friendly cat.In those few, quiet moments before falling off to sleep, I think about the day's events,  how far (literally) we've come in one day, and reflect on what a wonderful experience this is for our beautiful, young son. Jonathan is adaptable and doing really well. At ten years old, I wonder what he will remember, how much he will absorb, what might catch his interest. He is so precious. How I love to watch him experiencing life.

On to Guadalupe

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