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We landed at San Jose International Airport around 8:30 AM and though we were weary,
we were excited. Because of what we had read about airport thievery
and quick snatch artists, we were on guard. However, there didn't appear
to be
loiterers or suspicious characters lurking that we could recognize. Our
passports were checked and we moved quickly through customs. We
exchanged some money while at the airport. This turned out to be one of
best rates we got anywhere (218 Colones to $1 US). We could feel the humidity change, but it was pleasantly warm, somewhere in
the low 80’s. I had on a long-sleeved Eddie Bauer T-shirt and jeans so was a
little overdressed for this region. San Jose is on the
Meseta Central or Central Plateau that is surrounded by mountains, and at an
elevation of 3773 feet above sea level is known for it's 'eternal spring'
weather, with an average temperature of 20º Celsius throughout the year.
I noticed my husband tipping a man who helped with suitcases and instantly
several more scrambled over “to help”. I think he tipped 4 others before we
got out of the terminal. "More rich North Americans" they were no
doubt thinking. Our taxi driver, who speaks English, was waiting for us.
Most B&Bs or hotels will arrange airport pickup for you which makes
getting where you are going a lot simpler. He kept the taxi windows down
and the air smelled of exhaust fumes, the kind of smell when engines
aren't tuned properly. Jonathan sat in front seat and he taught him a few
things to say in Spanish while we drove the 20 minutes to Escazu. When he heard we were going to the coast for four days, he offered to drive us there and take us around, then drive us back. I think he wanted $60 a day. Dean was thinking that might be better than renting a car and driving ourselves. Car rental can end up costly here as there is a mandatory $750 deductible. The man was nice enough and it was good to hear him teaching Jonathan some conversational Spanish, but I don't think I want to share our vacation with him. I am tired, stressed and sleep-deprived, and not feeling too friendly at the moment. But this is one of the very pleasant aspects of Costa Rica -- the friendliness and helpfulness of the Ticos. Generally, they will go out of their way to offer their help. Most of us just aren't used to asking.
Driving through Escazu initiated some mild culture shock. I
was told that the U.S. Ambassador's residence is here as well as some
others. It is only
minutes from the airport and about 15 minutes from downtown San Jose. This
area is full of luxury estates, old colonial buildings, a diverse assortment
of restaurants and small hotels and B&Bs. Escazu is said to be 'in
the country', but that must have been years ago. The taxi man drove us by
a compound where he said the United States Embassy workers live. It was
surrounded by concrete block or cement walls as (it seems) is any substantial
house and the yards/grounds are not visible from the street. Other
houses are right up to the street with iron gates surrounding the front. I
wonder if burglary makes this all so necessary or if it's just the
‘style’. He also drove us over a narrow bridge said to be
haunted, over which some locals refuse to travel. We arrived at Casa Maria B&B in Escazu about 9:30 in the morning and it was
not what we had expected. Had we not had reservations and paid in
advance, we would have gone elsewhere. This was supposed to be in the
'countryside' but actually is very much 'in town'. We live in the
country and are not accustomed to close quarters. There wasn't any 'country' to be seen though
I think if we continued up the steep hill a It is starting to be a little relaxing and it was a strange
thought that we were
actually sitting in Central America. From the terrace there is a small
break in the surroundings that provides a bit of a view across the valley of
San Jose to the mountains to the north. Lawrence, the owner says there is a volcano across
there - Poas
- and makes a strange comment about how he hates it. I didn’t ask why. I can
see lots of lights and wonder what’s over there and if I'll get to find out.
We went exploring around the grounds after dinner and
discovered that the owner's older son has a 'soda' out by the street. He fixes
roasted chicken and hamburgers. So Jonathan got some chicken to fill him up.
We shared some of it and made friends with a stray cat. It’s Friday
night and people are strolling up and down the street with lots of little
kids. They don't seem fearful about being mugged but Dean still is cautious since we aren't familiar with
the area. Dean called some people who live in San Jose with whom we
became acquainted through our pastor friend, to see if it would be convenient
for us to visit on Saturday and to let Jonathan visit with their son. We said
we would take a cab but Orietta insisted that she would pick us up. We
had to have the owner give her directions. I'm amazed that anyone can
find their way around town with the lack of street signs. |
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